Silvia started this summer at the Alpenbrevet, an event that takes place in the fantastic landscape of the Swiss Alps and can easily compete with the famous Ötztaler Radmarathon in terms of difficulty. In this guest article, she talks about the physical and mental ups and downs she experienced in a single day on the road bike. Enjoy reading!
Swiss Cycling Alpenbrevet
by SILVIA SCHÖNER
Sport has always been an important part of my life. Over the years, cycling has become my absolute passion. Whether as a means of transport in everyday life or as a commute to work, long rides on the weekend, short trips or cycling vacations – I can’t do without a bike any more. People often ask me why I get on my bike in winter, or why I spend an entire holiday on my bike. When you do something with passion and pursue a goal that is important to you personally, you invest the time, get good at it and create unforgettable moments. Often it’s the supposedly big challenges that give you the best memories.
A new challenge was needed, so at the beginning of the year I signed up for the Swiss Cycling Alpenbrevet Platinum Tour in Switzerland. In numbers, that means 268 kilometres with 7,090 meters of elevation gain over five famous mountain passes in the Swiss Alps. As far as the altitude meters are concerned, this is definitely a challenge. At this time, I was still very relaxed, because there was still plenty of time to prepare well. When the time came, I felt – like probably many who do a long tour or a cycling marathon – not really well-prepared. But backing out is never an option, so on September 3rd, I ventured into the adventure of conquering the five passes in the given time.
Swiss Cycling Alpenbrevet – what is that exactly?
The Alpenbrevet in Switzerland is a one-day event and leads over the most beautiful mountain passes in Switzerland. There are tours of different lengths to choose from. From the bronze tour with 84 kilometres and two passes to the silver and gold tour to the longest and most demanding, the platinum tour.
Since I had already ridden 5,000 meters in altitude just for myself, and I wanted a new challenge, my choice fell on the Platinum Tour. Five passes had to be climbed between the start and finish in Andermatt. Higher, faster, further? What actually drives you on? That’s not easy to put into words. On the one hand, there are the various emotions that you experience during such a tour and the feelings of happiness when you have made it. On the other hand, what one’s own body is capable of and what kind of forces can be activated.
The course is not closed off, since it is not a race. However, certain timings, so-called control cut-off times, must be met to ensure that every rider reaches the finish line by 9 pm.
The excitement increases - 3, 2, 1...
One thing is usually clear during a cycling marathon, the night is short and the alarm clock rings early. At 4 o’clock it was time to get out of bed and make porridge. The first look was out of the window. The road was dry. That was good. Shortly after, my husband and I were in the car. To get to the starting point in Andermatt we had to cross the Oberalp Pass – the last pass of our today’s round. At that time by car, later on the bike. The excitement is rising.
After breakfast in the still warm car we got the bikes ready and got dressed. It was colder than expected, and I decided at short notice to change from knee warmers to leg warmers and to put on overshoes. The weather forecast for the day was unfortunately not the best, so I went rather on the safe side.
Shortly before 6 o’clock, we went to the start line. The 500 starters of the Platinum Tour were sent off in groups. The first section from Andermatt to Wassen to the first ascent, the Sustenpass, was completed without timing, so that everyone could get in without rushing and to prevent dangerous situations from arising in the dark. I made it into the second start group and as soon as I could pedal, I calmed down and the anticipation increased.
1st climb: Susten Pass (18 km / 1,330 hm, gradient 7.4%)
Finally, at the first climb. Just before the official timing, many stopped briefly to take off their jackets and gloves. I was quickly in the rhythm and tried not to get carried away, to tackle it too fast. Especially at the beginning, some participants set a high pace, but a friend who had ridden the Gold Tour the year before told me that you have to be careful not to put out too much power, especially at the beginning, and I stuck to that.
I had already ridden the climb once before in the summer as the last pass of a four-pass tour. My memories of this pass were not too positive. It stretches over quite long straights and only a few switchbacks.
However, the atmosphere at dawn was very nice, I got into conversation with some participants and the legs were fresh, so I could revise my opinion.
The food on such a long tour is the be-all and end-all. So I had in addition to two filled water bottles with isotonic drink also bars and gels in the jersey pocket, which I ate during the climb. Shortly before the summit, I went through a tunnel and thus the first mountain pass was done. I quickly put on my windbreaker and gloves and started the descent down to Innertkirchen with the first aid station. After a short toilet, two cups of warm vegetable broth and a piece of bread, I filled my bike bottles and my jersey pockets with gel and bars.
2nd climb: Grimsel Pass (26 km, 1,580 hm, gradient 6.1%)
And already I found myself on climb number two. I had also ridden this pass before and remembered its rugged mountain landscape and dams and lakes. But it was still a long way to go. I tried to ride in my pace, but pretty quickly small groups of riders formed and a sense of community immediately developed. I got into conversation with some and so the climb became very entertaining. I rode together with a young man who, as it turned out, lives only a few kilometres from my hometown. Always amazing to see how small the (cycling) world is. We alternated a bit in the lead work and I could really enjoy the ascent as well as the magnificent view. There was even time to take photos. The weather was better than announced. A mix of sun and clouds and I regretted having put on overshoes and leg warmers, but they should still prove extremely useful later. At the top I just closed my wind vest and enjoyed the beautiful descent to Ulrichen to the second aid station. During the descent, I met oncoming riders from one of the other three laps, and we cheered each other on.
3rd climb: Nufenen Pass (14 km, 1,140 hm, gradient 8.3%)
Refreshed, we went up to pass number three, the steepest of the day. I had to go to the toilet on an undisturbed corner in the climb, the line in front of the toilet stalls was just too long for me. I wanted to move on quickly, since the control point at 13:50 in Airolo was sitting on my back. I knew from the start that the biggest challenge would be to stay within this time limit. If I didn’t make it, I would have to take the direct route from Airolo to Andermatt via the old Gotthard Pass road, known as the Tremola. But I didn’t want to think about that, and so far I was well within the time limit.
The tide turns: bad weather and fog
The headwind got stronger, so I kept looking for the slipstream. There were riders of the other tours coming towards me, thickly wrapped and with loud cheers, which always put a smile on my face. The closer I got to the top of the pass, the worse the weather became. The weather turned. At the top I quickly put on my jacket, gloves and headband to avoid cooling out. Once again, I was made aware of how quickly the weather can change in the mountains. Thick fog blocked the view and the serpentines were only visible shortly before. This made the descent increasingly difficult, and I lost valuable time. But that was not enough, the fog was joined by rain, and I was getting colder. A shame, I had so good memories of this beautiful long descent. I moved my fingers again and again, so that they didn’t become too stiff. The rain was getting heavier, the water had already flooded my shoes, I was completely soaked and frozen through.
In my mind, I had already abandoned my plan to complete the Platinum Tour.
In my mind, I had already abandoned my plan to complete the Platinum Tour. I wanted to return to Andermatt the fastest way, which meant that I would not continue to Biasca in the direction of the Lukmanier Pass, but over the Gotthard Pass.
But first I turned to the third checkpoint in Airolo. The participants were buzzing around under the tents that had been set up and warming themselves with warm vegetable broth, including me. My husband and I had agreed to call the partner in case something unforeseen happened. Not sure how I was going to proceed, I tried to reach him. He was going faster than me and was already on his way to Biasca. He was able to join a group on this descent, so he couldn’t really make a call. I thought back and forth. I didn’t really feel like riding the Gotthard Pass. In order to shorten the distance, I could also turn directly to our hotel after crossing the Lukmanierpass. However, it was also clear that if I made it to that point, I would definitely make it to the finish. After some vegetable broth, coke, chocolate and bread, I got on my bike and set off in the direction of Biasca.
Renewed courage: a sorrow shared is a sorrow halved
Now began the part of the route that I did not know yet. The Lukmanier and Oberalp passes were still waiting for me. I tried to warm up again and knew that it would be best to find a group. The road to Biasca is sloping but long. With a strong south wind that day, it would take a lot of energy if I had to do the 60 kilometres alone. In the distance I could spot a couple. So I increased the speed to be able to catch up with the potential comrades-in-arms. After I actually succeeded in doing so, we reached Biasca as a well-functioning group. There the sun reappeared, and we got warmer, so gloves and windbreaker went back into the jersey pockets. My state of mind had turned around and I knew: giving up is out of question, I will finish the Platinum Tour!
4th climb: Lukmanier Pass (43 km, 1,740 hm, gradient 4%)
I already heard, the Lukmanier is a nasty thing and drags like chewing gum. Based on the bare numbers, I thought: moderate slope, that will be fine. The intermediate destination was Olivone, where the next refreshment station was waiting after 600 meters of ascent. Our trio was joined by a fourth rider, a Swiss with whom I rode for a long time. We chatted, and he told me that he had ridden the Platinum Tour last year, but was not as fit at the moment because he had recently torn a ligament. The route was not routed over the main road as last year, but over side roads and bike paths.
The advantage was little traffic, the disadvantage that it was constantly up and down. At a long climb we eventually lost each other and since I did not know exactly how long it would be until Olivone, I filled my water bottles at a fountain.
Scenically, the route was magnificent. The small villages immediately made you realize that you were in the Italian part of Switzerland. The roads were wet again, and my husband had texted about another rain shower. Unlike him, however, I was spared this time. At the food stop in Olivone, our group of four was reunited. We all refreshed ourselves with delicious cheese, bread and vegetable broth. After the sweet gels, bars and isotonic drinks, it’s always a relief to get something hearty between your teeth.
IN SOLIDARITY OVER TOUGH ALTITUDE METRES
I tried to keep the breaks as short as possible and continued on to tackle the remaining 1,100 vertical meters of the Lukmanier Pass. As before, I was able to keep my pace steady and made good progress. Again and again I saw familiar faces that had crossed my path several times during the day. When I bumped into two guys, they said to me, “Respect to you for doing this alone.” I was riding alone, but somehow I still rode together with my husband. We kept messaging each other about where we were and motivating each other. Some may be wondering why we didn’t ride together, or why my husband didn’t wait for me. We agreed from the beginning that we would each ride at our own pace and my husband would not wait. In changing weather conditions, the body would otherwise cool down much too quickly.
The Lukmanier stretched, but even a chewing gum can not be stretched infinitely, and so I reached the top of the penultimate pass. Full of motivation, I headed downhill to the last refreshment station in Disentis. Two escort motorcycles of the Alpenbrevet passed me during the descent and showed me the raised thumb. These small gestures are moments that you are happy about and that remain in your memory. In Disentis I was not hungry at all, but I knew it was important to once again supply energy for the last climb. So once again bread, vegetable broth and Coke.
5th climb: Oberalp Pass (21 km, 970 hm, 4.6%)
In Disentis we turned left to the Oberalp Pass. What is burned into my memory here, how all participants were loudly cheered on by the guests in the cafés at the foot of the pass – a great feeling. My husband and I had already climbed part of the Oberalp Pass the day before to loosen up our legs a bit from the long car ride. I knew it would be relatively flat at the beginning, so I could make good speed. It was noticeable that the bike marathon was coming to an end. It was already getting a bit dusky and there were only a few cyclists on the road. In Sedrun I passed our hotel, a quick glance to the right. The prospect of a warm shower and the comfortable bed mobilized the last forces to make it to the finish. Unfortunately it started to rain again and again, I was completely soaked. However, I was warm from riding uphill, so I didn’t put on my rain jacket.
The last switchbacks were in sight and after the rain had stopped again, there was a nice evening atmosphere. My legs were still good, and I was able to keep my pace. When the red lighthouse of the Oberalp Pass appeared, I knew I had almost made it. I had been looking forward to this moment insanely. Unfortunately, both the roads and I were very wet, so it got really cold again on the descent and the enjoyment didn’t really set in. Fortunately, I had not yet completely used up the batteries of my bicycle lamps, as it was getting darker. At the entrance to Andermatt, the people on the road clapped their hands and cheered me on. My Garmin’s battery was low and when I took the exit of the last traffic circle and turned onto the home stretch, it finally went out. But I didn’t care at that moment.
I could do without the few meters at the end. I heard my name echoing through the loudspeakers, the people clapping at the finish line, and I saw my husband already waiting behind the finish arch with open arms and a spread-out rescue blanket. Overjoyed, we fell into each other’s arms. We actually made it. What a day. Unclicked and finally with both feet on the ground, I was handed a warming vegetable broth and only then realized how cold I actually was. Despite dry clothes, heated seats and hot shower in the hotel, I was still shivering for a long time. Only in bed, I became warm again.
What remains is the feeling of happiness and the experiences of this unforgettable bike marathon.
What remains is the feeling of happiness and the experiences of this unforgettable bike marathon. Even if most participants would have preferred a little more sunshine, the memories are usually much more intense in such difficult weather conditions. Once again, I realized that not only muscle power and endurance decide if you can master such a challenge – a lot happens in your head. I can only recommend it to every cyclist to participate in such an event. Get out of your comfort zone and just do it – it’s worth it.
Find more information about the event here: https://www.alpenbrevet.ch/
Text: Silvia Schöner
Edit: Eva Ullrich
Edit / Layout: Stefanie Fritzen
Photos: Silvia Schöner / click inspired photography